I recently read a restaurant review in a national newspaper and after gushing about the service, food, wine list and décor, the reviewer then slagged off the clientele, writing
Ewan Lacey
Misery me? Never!
something like, ‘it’s a pity the miserable locals don’t look happier about the arrival of such a wonderful gastropub…’

It got me thinking; are wine producers or even merchants allowed to complain about the people who buy their wines; or wine writers entitled to criticise people they think might drink the wines they review.
Let’s imagine an example: ‘This Pinot Grigio has a delicious weight of fruit and is gorgeously well balanced with a delicious honeyed finish. Pity that the kind of people who buy Pinot Grigio don’t like wine. This is wasted on them, so if you’re reading this, save yourself that extra 99p and just buy the same old crap you usually do.’I’d be surprised to see that, it’s too easy, like a Dad scoring a hat-trick in the Father and Son football match.
Maybe your local wine merchant might take a slightly different stance. Try buying some 2003 Red Burgundy from your local bottle shop and see what reaction you get.

My guess is that if you’re spending well on Nuits Saint Georges or Chambolle Musigny they’ll happily take your money. But if you’re shopping for Bourgogne Rouge from the same vintage he might tell you it’s a bit of a Pamela Anderson; which admittedly is great if you like that kind of thing, but not everyone’s cup of tea.

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