- Written by Ewan Lacey Ewan Lacey
- Published: 12 September 2006 12 September 2006
On the menu in the Marquees Tavern the other week were a Santorini, a Vermentino and a Catarratto/Inzolia blend. Whether you can admit to a passing familiarity with the wines or not; they’re not going to be first off the shelf at your local Victoria Wine (sorry, does Victoria Wine still exist?)
The potted salmon and the Sardinian Vermentino was a great match. The key is the fresh, refreshing acidity of the wine, but what made it really work is that Salmon’s (kinda) sweet and the Vermentino has an underlying sweet tone that harmonised perfectly.
The Sicilian Catarratto/Inzolia was the wine that had the least identity: well it is a blend. It was also the most like a Pinot Grigio. This is either a good thing or a bad thing, depending on your point of view. It worked well, but it tended to taste a bit grapey when matched with stronger flavours (grapey is an insult to wine as ‘fishy’ is to seafood).
The champion wine was the Santorini, a Greek wine. Santorini has an incredibly long history of wine making and the wine is delicious. It even works with Sardines which are very difficult to match partly because of they’re so oily. Where the acidity in the Vermentio was underwoven with honey; the Santorini had a briney note which seemed to make the fruit slightly more evident and the wine more refreshing. It paired all three dishes wonderfully well and I was very pleasantly surprised.
That was my John Peel moment, one of them – I’m lucky enough to be confronted with loads of wines that I’ve never heard of and it certainly broadens the horizons. But then I’m not always paying; so what’s the safest way to proceed when you’re handing over your own money.
Here’s a suggestion: in the summer, go for fresh seafood and cold white wines that come from the coast. That coast can be almost anywhere (apart from Ireland, etc.) Coastal white wines won’t all be good, but you can guarantee a tradition of drinking them with fish that will date back hundreds of years. It will work to a degree and if nothing else, it’s a movement away from ubiquity.
Diversity, then is the main reward for drinking wine you’ve never heard of, but a word of caution. For every band like The Undertones, unearthed by John Peel, there were probably 450 wailing amateurs who had to hold on to their day jobs. So don’t expect miracles, but don’t get stuck in a rut either.
Did you know that Sicily has more land under vine than Australia?
The Marquees Tavern, 32 Canonbury Street, London N1 focuses on good quality products and is well worth a visit.
An aperitif by the coliseum
As COVID-19 conspires with the grimmest of winds and rain to force a societal retreat behind our own front doors, the word ennui springs to mind. The muddle of displeasure is pierced when Natalia hands me a large bulbous glass of a liquid I do not recognise.
Artichoke pasta and very fine Pigato
Britain’s lamentable exit
On the eve of Britain’s official departure from the EU, my partner and I decided to explore a small town on the Italian Riviera where thewintry cold doesn’t feel so much like cold war bite.
I had warned my significant other that I would be having an inverse departure party, a release of the sanity valve if you like!
Soave: volcanic wines with elegance and longevity
Sitting inside the ancient castle walls inside the town of Soave, a short drive from Verona in northern Italy, the unique slightly almond aroma of the indigenous grape, Garganega, rises gently from my glass. The castle sprawls up the side of an extinct volcano that gives the region its variant soil structures that mark out the better quality of Soave wines.
An American In Paris; Tanisha Townsend (@GirlMeetsGlass) discusses podcasts, Paris wine bars, & what she's drinking at the moment
Tanisha Townsend decided to move to Paris 4 years ago after regularly passing through the city en route to the world’s most famous vineyards. In fact, it was about 2 years ago at the Printemps de Champagne Bouzy Rouge tasting in Reims that I saw (who we shall now refer to as) GirlMeetsGlass chirpily speaking to her web followers on Snapchat.
Wine tasting in Galicia: The pilgrims search for Albarino
The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, the final resting place of Saint James, rises out of the landscape, infested with antiquity. The rambling steep streets give way to shafts of dramatic light, emblazoned chapels, and tightly packed tapas bars, dusty, as old novels pressed together in antiquarian bookshops.
Interview: (Re)Defining the Entre-Deux-Mers, climate change & tasting with Stephane Dupuch
Driving into the Entre-Deux-Mers region from the north, the vineyards roll out like a bright green deep-pile carpet across the undulating land. It’s hard not to be excited about tasting wines with so much heritage, as we head to Chateau-Sainte-Marie to meet with 5th generation owner, Stéphane Dupuch.