Segura Viudas “Clos Juvència” 2010 from Penedes, Spain

I half expected I’d bought a dud considering the clear glass bottle and 16years of age but as the deeply amber wine’s aroma touched the edge of my nostrils, a joyful familiarity came over me: “Reminds me of Champagne!”

I take as much time perusing the shelves of Spanish wine shops as I do scanning movie websites for something to watch (usually the perusing is longer in duration than the movie selected). For wine it does more-often pay a dividend and the recent discovery of a shelf of obscure aged wines from across Spain lent a little unplanned variety to the evening sipping ritual.

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The champagne connection to the “Clos Juvéncia” from Penedes was the distinct toasted bready-brioche aromas, intermingling with subtly attractive floral notes. The brioche was like a transporter taking me back to tasting trips in Champagne when wines aged on their lees demonstrated how complex they can become when time in the cellar allows chemical reactions to take place. This process of autolysis gives the pleasant character common in traditional method sparklers where lees ageing is part of the process.

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The producer, Segura Viudas, is predominantly a cava producer, which indicates an aptitude for slow aging on the lees. In the glass, the dark amber liquid displayed feint floral notes but also a more overt attractive autolytic character of btoasted rioche. It was creamier and textured in the mouth with just enough acidic brightness to hold the flavour components together and increase its more-ish quality. With a long pleasing finish, this was a wine both rich and refreshing.

I shall revisit the shelf this week.

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We rolled out the rug on a small patch of grass etched between the steep cascade of Roman terraces, with neat lines of vines both rising above us and falling away to the tranquil water below. Between each vine, the ground was covered in shrubs, flowers and buzzing insects. The panoramic view across the Sil Canyon, in this stretch of Ribeira Sacra, with tins of sardines in olive oil and a makeshift salad, offer a rustic experience of sublime dining. 

 

Last week a picture was posted on Twitter of vines in Shabo, a large estate that lies to the west of Odesa on southern Ukraine’s Black Sea coastline. The image seemed benign at face value but the reality, of course, is that the city of Odesa has been bracing itself for attack by Russian forces. 

 

As COVID-19 conspires with the grimmest of winds and rain to force a societal retreat behind our own front doors, the word ennui springs to mind. The muddle of displeasure is pierced when Natalia hands me a large bulbous glass of a liquid I do not recognise.

 

 

Britain’s lamentable exit

On the eve of Britain’s official departure from the EU, my partner and I decided to explore a small town on the Italian Riviera where thewintry cold doesn’t feel so much like cold war bite.

I had warned my significant other that I would be having an inverse departure party, a release of the sanity valve if you like!

 

Sitting inside the ancient castle walls inside the town of Soave, a short drive from Verona in northern Italy, the unique slightly almond aroma of the indigenous grape, Garganega, rises gently from my glass. The castle sprawls up the side of an extinct volcano that gives the region its variant soil structures that mark out the better quality of Soave wines.

 

Tanisha Townsend decided to move to Paris 4 years ago after regularly passing through the city en route to the world’s most famous vineyards. In fact, it was about 2 years ago at the Printemps de Champagne Bouzy Rouge tasting in Reims that I saw (who we shall now refer to as) GirlMeetsGlass chirpily speaking to her web followers on Snapchat.

 

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